SMOKINCHOICES (and other musings)

March 9, 2013

Best Moisturizing Lotion (how-to)

My Best Moisturizing Lotion

  (February  2013)

Moisturizing Lotion for Body, Hands and Face

Sometime over the last couple of years I mentioned the fun I was having with experimenting with creams for face, hands and body.   I love doing it.  I have always loved playing in the kitchen – since I was a small child.  I was always allowed this privilege, thus, it is a given that I indulge this pleasure.  Mostly, the effort has been acceptable.   Now, finally, I am very pleased.

Seniors living on Social Security as I do aren’t able to afford the posh cosmetics from elegant stores to which I was once accustomed.  But my tastes haven’t changed,  the wallet simply isn’t as fat or forgiving.    So there is the cost factor for one issue.  The primary consideration before that however is my  sensitive skin, which will break out and therefore, eliminated many choices.  So I have always had to be ‘choosy’  for my needs.  Now, I feel I’ve hit the jackpot and am delighted to share, as I said I would if and when there was something worthy of sharing.

Furthermore,  I know more now and wouldn’t even consider putting all those chemicals with strange names anywhere on my body.  The skin is our largest organ and anything applied to it will be absorbed into our system.    So must be totally organic, but luxurious, healing and feel terrific.  This works for me.


All ingredients are pure, organic – entirely free of extraneous chemicals.    Oils and products have been sourced primarily from MOUNTAIN ROSE HERBS.   Sesame and Avocado oils are from a new line of Organics at Puritan’s Pride.

  •   Also used 2 gel-caps each of Vit E (400 mg) and Evening Primrose oil (1000 mg)  Would have added Vit A as well, but, didn’t have any.

Have largely increased (distilled) WATER as all previous efforts have been too thick to easily rub onto hands and body. Traditionally, recipes call for 50 – 50 water-based and oil-based ingredients. With this formula, I am using approximately 4 – 5 oz of Oils to about 14 oz of Water.   Sound worthless? This is the most luxurious, rich emulsion I’ve ever put on my skin. My skin IS HAPPIER and LOVES IT!

A few notes for innocent novices who may not have any idea what I’m jabbering on about.

  •  Sea Buckthorne seed oil This is Free Fatty Acid, easily absorbed by skin and penetrates deeply. Historic tales describe horses turned out to pasture to die, but instead were remarkably transformed into beautiful shining animals when they partook of this powerhouse of nutrition and was referred to as the “tree that makes horses shine” I use this in my formula and see many famous recipes and ingredient labels of expensive cosmetics do contain this. But alas, one can only use so much due to the orangey color it imparts. So can only use “enough” for a tinge of pretty color – not after gauche.
  •  Emulsifying Wax I use the ‘Bead’ variety from Mt Rose Herbs. Melts easily, quickly. This is a required step in order to get the oils and water to blend and stay in emulsion. (together). Wax is added to the oils, stirred while heating in pan – just til beads are melted. Remove from heat. I don’t want to negate any of the nutrient of the oils which are organic and good to go. Process needs oil heated to do this, so I use the coconut oil and low to medium heat. Which this oil CAN take (I use it for sautéing, etc.- – like butter)
  •  Water Portion This refers to not only the water, but (if used) the Aloe Vera gel, any choice of Hydrosol which one can learn from Learning Herbs John Gallagher or Mt Rose Herbs or even a store-bought ‘Rose-Water’. Anything but the oils & wax. Water is heated < 120, then set aside to cool.
  • Oils So many choices. Its kinda up to you. There’s Shea Butter, Cocoa Butter said to be excellent for skin. I have Jojoba and Sweet Almond Oil – both of which I really do like. And all of which I have used in making face and body butters and creams.    Grape seed kernel Oil is another recent purchase many speak highly of.

Simone Oliver whom I respect (you can find her on YouTube making the  Face Cream in separate 3 or 4 part segments) says the most popular face cream she makes and her clients buy, contains Cottonwood oil because it sinks in well and is very good for dry skin.

She also says to NEVER HEAT THE OILS and also suggests that using  Olive oil for cosmetics can leave a greasy or oily film to deal with. There is the Buckthorne Berry oil already spoken of which is known to be Anti-Aging in it’s properties.

*                               *                           *

 Generally, Lotions will be thinner than regular creams for the face which are about 50% Water and 50% Oils   Lotions can be 65% to 70% Water to about 30 to 35% oils


WATER                                                                      OILS   

1 ½ C Water                                                        ¼ C Coconut oil
2 – 3 Tbsp Aloe Vera gel                               2 tsp Sea Buckthorne Oil
¼ C either Vegetable glycerin,                  2 Tbsp Avocado Oil
Hydrosol or Rose Water                                2 Tbsp Sesame Oil


 2 TBsp Emulsifying Wax  (beads),  (1/4 to 1/3 C for creams (which want to be thicker)

10 to 15 drops Essential oils (about 1 drop for ea oz making). .can be Lavender, Calendula, Rose, etc.


Heat Water on stove to about 120 degrees, remove and set aside to cool

Heat coconut oil and emulsifying wax beads in double boiler til just warm enough to melt wax, stirring. Remove from heat. Let cool down.  Then add rest of oils have chosen.

Can use blender (messy to clean) or wire whisk (or stick blender – my choice) adding water mixture to the oils by drizzling  in a steady stream.  While creams will thicken immediately, lotion takes a bit more blending, but will thicken slightly  then,  must move quickly lest it get too thick to pour through a funnel into a pump bottle.  (With creams, the longer you blend, the smoother and lovelier it will be.)

Note: I had wanted this primarily for my hands and body.  But this lotion is so healing and moisturizing, I now prefer it for my face as well,   I love this stuff.  Hope you do too.  Next time I am going to add the Cottonwood Oil which Simone Oliver had mentioned.

For any of you who may desire a cream rather than a lotion, just reduce the liquids downward to about half and half, while at the same time increasing the Emulsifying Wax to about 1/3 cup; as well as blending it longer to enhance the creaminess of the end product.  Good luck and have fun.    Jan



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